‘Footlooseinme’ takes you to the Fiordlands of New Zealand. Welcome to the Fiordland National Park! Milford Sound, also known as Piopiotahi in Māori, is a fiord on the southwest coast of the South Island in New Zealand. A 3.5-hour drive from Queenstown takes us to the Milford Sound village, from where the Milford Sound Cruise departs. Enjoy the fascinating drive from the lake town of Queensland to the Milford Sound Cruise.
A fjord (or Fiord as spelt in New Zealand) is a sea inlet. A narrow water inlet with steep sides characterises a fjord. Glaciers created fjords during the Glacial Age. A network of such inlets defines the Southwest Coast of the South Island of New Zealand. This network of Fiords makes up the Fiordland National Park. The Fiordland National Park is the largest of the 13 National Parks in New Zealand. This National Park comes under the Department of Conservation. It is a haven for many endangered and native species. Takahē, Mohua, Kākāpō, and Southern brown kiwi are a few among the list.
Ancient glacial activities created these crooked shorelines with deep inlets, some of which even extend up to 40 km inland. After the ice age, glaciers retreated. This left behind networks of U-shaped valleys. These valleys have steep fortifications leading to numerous sea inlets. Some of them run deep into the mainland. The Milford Sound, Doubtful Sound and Dusky Sound are the most notable Fiords of the Fiordland National Park.
The southern ranges of the Southern Alps cover the whole of the Fiordland. This creates a complex landscape. It combines high mountains, deep glacier-curved valleys, lakes, waterfalls, and the water inlet from the Tasman Sea. Hence, the Fiordlands were mostly an inaccessible landscape in ancient times.
Although the Fiordlands were known to the Māori for more than 1000 years, the population here was always negligible. The daunting geological structure of the Fiordlands, along with the climatic conditions prevailing here, kept this place pristine. The Fiordland is bounded by large glacial lakes on the other side. Lake Te Anau and Lake Manapouri are the most notable among them. These two large lakes further extend several arms to the west, again creating fiord-like formations.
The fiords appeared intimidating and mysterious. Because of this, Captain James Cook bypassed the Fiordland National Park on his first circumnavigation around the South Island. This enigmatic landmass was unexplored by Europeans until 1812. Captain John Grono discovered it in that year. He named it Milford Haven after his birthplace in Wales. Later, Captain John Lort Stokes renamed it as Milford Sound in the purchase deed for Southland.
There was no evidence of permanent settlement of the Māoris in Milford Sound. In the quest for gold, Quintin McKinnon was assigned to find a land route to Milford Sound. After a survey of the area, he found the route over a pass now known as McKinnon Pass. The walking route to Milford Sound is known as the Milford Track. This was the first route to Milford Sound known to the Europeans. In 1877, Donald Sutherland became the first European to settle here. Gradually, tourism started to flourish in this region.
Tourism in this area comprises several activities. These include hiking the Milford Track and kayaking through the dark waters. Additionally, flying above the mysterious landscape is an option. Lastly, the most popular activity is gliding over the inky waters in the Milford Sound Cruise. The Milford Sound Cruise provides an extraordinary experience. It allows you to travel through the 15 Km long fiord. This fiord meets the Tasman Sea at Dale Point. Conducted tours operate coach services from Queenstown and the township of Te Anau.
We had our Milford Sound Cruise tour booked from Queensland, a resort town in the southwest of the South Island. Located beside the Z-shaped glacial Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown is often referred to as the resort town. European settlement began here during the 19th-century gold rush in New Zealand. Since then, it has been the resort town for the early gold miners. Later, it attracted adventure seekers interested in skiing, snowboarding, and cruising.
We had to start early for our Milford Sound Cruise. Our designated coach picked us up from the mentioned pickup point. We were on the scenic roads of Queenstown. We drove by the blue lake, Wakatipu. We passed through the outskirts of Queenstown. Then, we travelled through the farmlands of the Southland region. Finally, we reached the township of Te Anau.
Te Anau is the largest lake in the South Island of New Zealand. It is the gateway to the Fiordland National Park. Te Anau town was established after the Milford Track was discovered. This again contributed to the development of tourism. The town serves as the halting station before venturing into the mysterious Fiordlands. Tour coaches operated by various tour operators for the Milford Sound Cruise stop here for a refreshment break.
After a quick breakfast, we boarded the bus, and then the landscape gradually changed from man-made farms to unmodified vegetation. The dense forest cover signalled that we had entered the Fiordland National Park. The floral variety comprised species of large evergreen trees such as Silver and Mountain Beech. There was also a large variety of shrubs and ferns. The forest floor was covered by Bryophytes.
Mirror Lakes, located in the Eglinton Valley, offer a beautiful reflection of the surroundings. A short walking track on this lake offers a close-up view of the crystal clear water. These are ox-bow lakes that were created by the Eglinton River changing its course. There are chances of sighting the native long-finned eels.
We passed through the Knobs Flat. This is where the workers camped while making the Homer Tunnel and the road to the Milford Sound Cruise. Then we reached the Homer Tunnel. Homer tunnel is located in the Darran Mountains at the Homer Saddle. The tunnel is a significant part of the road link to the Milford Sound Cruise. It was named after William Henry Homer, who discovered the saddle and suggested the possibility of building a tunnel. This is a one-way tunnel, and the traffic light system manages the traffic for smooth operation.
Finally, after a long, picturesque drive of 3.5-4 hours, we reached the Milford Sound Wharf. The catamaran was waiting to take us on an unforgettable Milford Sound Cruise. The place and the weather together have composed a mysterious prelude for us. As we travelled from Queenstown, the sunny day gradually transformed into a cold, misty day. The clear blue sky became overcast, and patches of clouds and fog shrouded the region.
The Fiordland National Park receives a huge amount of rainfall throughout the year. The Westerly winds carry moist air from the Tasman Sea towards the fiords. The air rises and creates excessive rainfall in the area. Milford Sound is the wettest inhabited place in New Zealand and also one of the wettest places in the world. With this introduction, it can be assumed that the weather here is perennially cloudy. The dark floating clouds and the massive mountains created an awe-inspiring ambience as we boarded the catamaran.
We took our seats on the deck, braving the chilling wind and a temperature of 2 °C. As the catamaran moved offshore, drizzling began. As we were cruising through the fiord, the wind, rain, and the chill in the air made it difficult to remain outdoors. We navigated the inky black waterway, lined by lofty mountains. The dramatic sky kept whirling its magic wand to keep the area shrouded under its spell. It seemed like we were entering a different world.
Heavy rain poured down with strong gusts of wind. It kept rocking the boat. The boat moved through the dark water of the fjord. There were waterfalls near and far. Some boats were seen below the waterfall. The mystical aura of the place engulfed us in its magical embrace. We were lost in time, in some unworldly place with our gaping mouths and wide-open eyes.
The thick evergreen forest covered the towering mountains. The deep, inky black water added to the sombre tone. The overcast sky, the mist around, and heavy showers all contributed. Every aspect of the Milford Sound Cruise painted the scene in its absorbing colours. The white waterfalls and the white catamarans floating through the channel were the only contrast in the scene. This place once amazed the famous poet Rudyard Kipling. He called it the ‘Eighth Wonder of the World’.
Milford Sound Cruise continued through this otherworldly region. Milford Sound comes to life on a cloud-shrouded rainy day. It seems the lofty mountains were looking down on us in an arms akimbo posture. Intimidating yet enthralling, the dark mountains stood by as the downpour continued. The Milford Sound Cruise meandered past the Mitre Peak (Māori name Rahotu). Near the shore of Milford Sound, Mitre Peak stands at a massive height of 5,560 ft. It has a sheer drop to the water.
Other notable features on our Milford Sound Cruise were the Lady Bowen Falls and the Stirling Falls. Numerous other falls were caused by the incessant rainfall. Due to heavy rain, we had to go on and off the catamaran deck. We missed capturing the Fiordland Crested Penguin. It swam ashore and was seen for a moment before it plunged again. We saw the Fur seal, but no more penguins. Lunch was served on board the Milford Sound Cruise. It consisted of the New Zealand special Pie. A Vegan option was also available.
After the remarkable 2-hour Milford Sound Cruise through the fascinating Fiordland, we were back on the wharf. Our coach waited to take us back the long way to Queenstown. With a short stop at Te Anau, we were back in Queenstown. We were still in awe of the magical Fiordland. The Milford Sound Cruise gave us an unforgettable experience and memories to cherish forever.
Read my post on Pohatu Penguins.
Read my previous post on Akaroa.
Read my previous post on Arthur’s Pass.
Read my previous post on Kaikoura Whale Watching.
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