Want to meet the curious, cheeky Keas? Yeah? Then join ‘Footlooseinme’ for the TranzAlpine train tour to Arthur’s Pass. The Southern Alps or the Kā Tiritiri o te Moana is the snow-capped mountain range that extends lengthwise through much of the South Island in New Zealand. The Southern Alps is the Main Divide between the west coast and the east coast of the South Island. The Arthur’s Pass is one of the gateways from the east coast to the West. So, let’s travel to Arthur’s Pass.
Captain James Cook named the mountain range as Southern Alps after sighting its impressive heights. The 500 km long mountain range extends from the northeast to the southwest of South Island. Mount Cook or the Aoraki (12,218 ft) is the tallest peak of the Southern Alps.
This mountain range is not only a geographical feature but also the lifeline for many glacial lakes like Lake Coleridge in the north and Lake Wakatipu in the south. Lewis Pass (SH 7), Arthur’s Pass (SH 73), Haast Pass (SH 6), and the road to Milford Sound (SH 94) are the major crossings through the Southern Alps. Today, I will talk about Arthur’s Pass.
Arthur’s Pass was previously known as Camping Flat or Bealey Flats. The surveyor of Canterbury province tasked Arthur Dobson to find a path through the watersheds of Waimakariri to the valleys of the west coast. He, along with his brother Henry Dobson, surveyed the area. A Maori Chief of the west coast told them about the pass occasionally used by the hunting parties. Arthur did not name the pass and submitted a report citing a steep slope on the western side of this pass.
Meanwhile, gold discoveries in the Coromandel, Otago, and West Coast regions led to the West Coast Gold Rush. Businessmen involved in mining wanted to have an easier route to the West Coast. Another brother of the Dobson was tasked to survey the watershed of the Taramakau, Waimakariri, and the Hurunu. He travelled through every valley and finally concluded that the “Arthur’s” pass was the best possible route to the West Coast. Since then, the pass has been called Arthur’s Pass.
A township was formed near Arthur’s Pass. In 1914, railway connectivity was built from Christchurch to Arthur’s Pass. While on the western section, it was built till Otira. A tunnel was then built to connect them in 1923. Finally, there was the railway connectivity from Christchurch to Greymouth on the west coast via Arthur’s Pass and the Otira tunnel.
This is the same historic TranzAlpine passenger railway service that runs today, covering a distance of 223 km from Christchurch to Greymouth. The Arthur’s Pass township is situated 4km south of the pass. Later, in 1929, Arthur’s Pass National Park was established. With the regular railway services, tourism in the area bloomed. People visited this place for its sheer beauty, and the native flowers were the most sought-after souvenirs. Even trees were cut down to fetch the rātā blooms. In an attempt to protect the native species, the Arthur’s Pass National Park was established. Arthur’s Pass National Park was the first National Park of the South Island.
Today, the viaduct of Arthur’s Pass is one of the primary attractions of the place. The other engineering marvels are the bridges and the rock shelters. A two-hour scenic TranzAlpine train tour from Christchurch brought us to Arthur’s Pass. We passed through picturesque landscapes of snow-peaked mountains, azure rivers and pretty valleys covered with gorse. (Read more about Gorse.)
We were busy watching the viaduct when a cheeky Kea dropped in from nowhere. It was standing above a van, looking down on us with its ever-curious glance. Kea is a large bird belonging to the parrot family and is endemic to the alpine and forested areas of the South Island in New Zealand.
Keas are notorious for their various activities here. Their curious nature leads them to carry small unattended items. They are highly fond of rubber parts in vehicles. They peck and pry apart the rubber parts of the cars, in turn damaging them. With all such ill fame, it was standing right on the top of the van watching us keenly. We were highly excited to see this pretty bird.
Our next encounter with a few Keas was in the Arthur’s Pass township. We stopped for lunch at a cafe. I would say the place was ruled by the Keas. They were all around the outdoor sitting area. We were strictly advised not to feed the Keas. But these birds know the trick to amuse people and get their share. They kept hopping around the table, and naturally, the tourists were amused to see them. Distracted while eating, people tend to drop food particles from their plates, providing the birds an excellent opportunity to feed.
They are correctly called “the clown of the mountains.” Keas are an endangered species, and they are under high protection under the Wildlife Act of 1986. They were hunted as a bounty and thus incessantly killed by the sheep farmers. It was believed that the Keas attacked livestock (especially sheep) and preyed on them. Animal farming is the main economy in New Zealand, with sheep rearing holding the topmost rank among them. The reputation of the Keas as the predator sadly brought down their numbers.
There is a controversy regarding the Keas preying on sheep. In 1868, it was a widespread thought that Keas attacked sheep, spread diseases and killed them. Much later, it was believed that the Kea may attack injured or sick animals, thinking them dead. In the recent past, some video evidence showed the nocturnal attacks of Kea on healthy animals. The videos confirmed that the Keas used their claws and curved beaks to rip the layer of wool and eat the fat from the back of the sheep.
Keas, being under the protected animal group, are safe now. The farmers silently tolerate their depredation (if any). After meeting these cute, mischievous (or shall I say notorious) Keas, we went to the sheep farm to meet the famous New Zealand sheep, the shepherd dog and the farmer. Sheep farming is a significant industry in New Zealand, with meat and dairy products being the major exports.
Sheep were introduced here and farmed to feed the Whales as whaling was a big industry then. As the whaling industry gradually declined, sheep farming began for wool, meat and dairy products. Many breeds were raised, and among them, the Marino was the best of all for their high-quality wool. We visited a farm where the farmer had more than 200 sheep. He showed us a small demonstration where his shepherd dog, named Ned, brought back a flock of sheep to the pen.
The man showed us his farm, he also demonstrated how he shears the sheep and also explained the process of animal farming. He mentioned the great help offered by these trained shepherd dogs. Ned was silently listening to all his praises. This adorable pup had yet to master his skill but made a remarkable impression on us. After all such new and incredible experiences, we returned back to Christchurch.
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