I could not remember the year when I last visited Thiruvananthapuram. What I could remember was the tiny me holding my parents’ hands and walking through the coconut groves at Kovalam Beach. Glimpses of memories from the zoo also came to mind as I looked down through the aircraft window.
In the early dawn, as the flight approached for touchdown, I could barely make out the city below. Only the lights of the Thiruvananthapuram port and the shoreline were prominent. The rest existed only as faint memories. These red-eye flights often leave you half awake and half asleep—half in dreams and half in reality. Before I knew it, the flight had already landed in Thiruvananthapuram.
Planning an Unplanned Trip to Thiruvananthapuram
On my solo trip to Kerala, Thiruvananthapuram was initially not part of the plan. While planning a few days away from my duties, I had my heart set on the Thattekad Bird Sanctuary. As I mentioned in my previous post, the unavailability of my preferred accommodation during that period forced me to change my plans entirely.
With an unplanned visit to Thiruvananthapuram, I quickly put together an impromptu itinerary of places to visit in Thiruvananthapuram.
My itinerary did not include the usual tourist attractions. Instead, I had shortlisted a collection of lesser-known yet fascinating places. The list included churches with remarkable architectural details, a couple of beaches, a lighthouse, a lake, a backwater boat ride, a few interesting temples, and, of course, the revered Padmanabhaswamy Temple.
Vellayani Lake – A Peaceful Escape from the City
I toured several magnificent churches in Thiruvananthapuram, which I will cover in a separate post. So, I will come straight to the other places to visit in Thiruvananthapuram.
Since it was a public holiday, the Napier Museum was closed. Mr Bahanan drove me to my next destination—Vellayani Lake. (Read more about Mr Bahanan in my previous post.)
Vellayani Lake is the largest freshwater lake in Thiruvananthapuram. In recent years, it has gained popularity on social media, especially during the blooming season when thousands of water lilies cover its surface. It was not the flowering season during my visit, and I did not expect to see the lilies. I simply wanted to experience the tranquillity of the lake.
Revisiting Kovalam Beach After Many Years
Vellayani Lake is located close to the famous Kovalam Beach. I was excited to revisit Kovalam after so many years.
Although my memories were vague, I could still recall flashes of an evening spent amidst coconut groves with the sound of waves in the background. However, on reaching Kovalam Beach, I could not quite match the scene before me with those memories.
A large hotel now stood by the beach. The coconut grove was still there, though less dense than I remembered. The beach was bustling with visitors, each enjoying the shore in their own way.
This felt like an entirely new place. It seemed as though I had never been here before. With fresh memories slowly replacing the old ones, I moved on to my next destination.
Aazhimala Shiva Temple – Home to Kerala’s Tallest Shiva Statue
Mr Bahanan then took me to two very special Shiva temples, neither of which was on my original list of places to visit in Thiruvananthapuram.
The first was the Aazhimala Shiva Temple, located beside Adimalathura Beach. The temple is famous for its 58-foot-tall Gangadhareshwara sculpture, the tallest Shiva statue in Kerala.
After entering the temple premises, visitors are rewarded with a full view of the magnificent statue standing against the backdrop of the sea. There is no other vantage point from which the entire sculpture can be appreciated.
Even beyond its religious significance, the sheer artistic beauty of the statue overlooking the Arabian Sea makes this a must-visit destination.
Vizhinjam Lighthouse – A Missed Opportunity
The Vizhinjam Lighthouse was nearby. Being particularly fond of lighthouses, I had placed it at the top of my list of places to visit in Thiruvananthapuram.
Without wasting any time, I headed towards Vizhinjam, pleased that I had arrived during public visiting hours. However, I was shocked to find the road completely packed with vehicles.
After walking uphill to reach the lighthouse, I discovered that entry had been temporarily suspended because of the overwhelming number of tourists. Visitors were being allowed in only after the crowd thinned out. The staff informed me that the estimated waiting time was around an hour before fresh visitors would be allowed inside.
I also learned that the lighthouse operates from 10:00 AM to 12:30 PM and again from 2:00 PM to 5:00 PM. A glance at my watch revealed that waiting for an hour would leave me with very little time before closing. With a long queue ahead, I decided to move on.
Shankumugham Beach and the Arattu Procession
Among the places to visit in Thiruvananthapuram, Shankumugham Beach stood out as an interesting stop. Located close to Thiruvananthapuram Airport, the beach was relatively less crowded and had a more rugged charm.
Coastal erosion has significantly affected parts of the beach over the years.
On the occasion of Arattu Day, a grand procession led by the titular Maharaja of Travancore begins at the Padmanabhaswamy Temple and concludes at Shankumugham Beach.
A beautiful café called the Old Coffee House overlooks the Laccadive Sea. After a quick refreshment, I visited the nearby park, which features the iconic Sagarakanyaka (Mermaid) sculpture by Kanayi Kunhiraman. Nearby, a decommissioned Russian-made Mil Mi-8 helicopter has been mounted for public display.
Padmanabhaswamy Temple – A Walk Through Memory and History
Visiting the Padmanabhaswamy Temple brought back fragments of childhood memories.
I remembered the temple precinct bustling with devotees and vendors selling flowers and puja items. My father had to change into a traditional veshti and angavastram, rented from a stall outside, before entering the temple.
The temple complex still feels timeless. The temple pond, adjoining buildings, and surrounding structures retain an old-world charm that transports visitors to another era.
Tasting Kerala’s Famous Boli and Palada Payasam
When I asked Mr Bahanan about local specialities worth trying, he took me to the famous Maha Boli shop.
The shop is known for its Boli and Palada Payasam. Boli is a sweet flatbread similar to Maharashtra’s Puran Poli and is traditionally enjoyed with rich and creamy Palada Payasam.
Since there was no seating arrangement and only takeaway service was available, I carried the food back to my hotel.
The verdict? The Palada Payasam was undoubtedly one of the best payasams I have ever tasted.
Exploring Poovar Island and Kerala’s Backwaters
Next on my list of places to visit in Thiruvananthapuram was Poovar.
Located near the city, Poovar Island is a picturesque village where the Neyyar River meets Kerala’s famous backwaters.
At the boating point, I was briefed about the two boat ride options available. One ride lasted for one and a half hours, while the other extended to two hours. The duration and number of attractions covered differed between the two. Since the two-hour ride included all the major spots along the backwaters and estuary, I decided to opt for that one.
As our speedboat glided through the Neyyar River and entered the narrow canals, the boatman-guide explained how these waterways once served as vital transportation routes. Over time, many canals dried up or were reclaimed by vegetation, though some have recently been restored.
The journey took us through mangrove forests and narrow waterways before opening into a vast estuary where the Neyyar River meets the Arabian Sea.
The golden sandbar separating the river from the sea was a remarkable sight. Along the way, I spotted cormorants, Asian openbill storks, and Oriental darters.
The Mother Mary Chapel, Elephant Rock, Coconut Island, fishing villages, floating restaurants, and even a floating resort added to the charm of the experience.
The boat ride was peaceful, educational, and one of the highlights of my trip.
Maheswaram Sri Sivaparvathi Temple – Home to a Giant Shiva Lingam
The second temple recommended by Mr Bahanan was the Maheswaram Sri Sivaparvathi Temple.
Located a little outside the city, this temple is known for its massive 111.2-foot Shiva Lingam.
The spacious and well-maintained temple complex creates a calming atmosphere. The giant Shiva Lingam is a walk-in structure featuring a spiralling ascent through dimly lit cave-like passages. The uppermost level symbolically represents Kailasa, the abode of Shiva and Parvati.
I was thoroughly impressed by this recommendation and considered it one of the most unique places to visit in Thiruvananthapuram.
Varkala Beach and the Historic Anjengo Fort
Although located a little away from the city, I decided to include Varkala Beach in my itinerary.
The journey itself proved rewarding. Along the way, I unexpectedly came across several interesting churches, a fort, and a lighthouse.
One notable stop was Anjengo Fort, one of the earliest British settlements in India. Built in 1690 with the permission of the Rani of Attingal, the fort helped the East India Company challenge Dutch dominance over the spice and coir trade.
Later, the fort became associated with resistance against British rule. The Anjengo Revolt is regarded as one of the earliest organised revolts against the British in Kerala.
The nearby lighthouse was constructed to guide ships arriving from Britain.
Sunset at Varkala Beach
After arriving at Varkala Beach, I intended to stay until sunset.
The beach was lively, with bustling crowds and busy seaside stalls. I spent some time taking a stroll along the shoreline.
Eventually, fatigue caught up with me. Rather than waiting for the sunset, I decided to return to my hotel and enjoy a well-earned rest.
Final Thoughts on the Best Places to Visit in Thiruvananthapuram
This was my short yet memorable list of places to visit in Thiruvananthapuram. While the city is often known for its famous landmarks, some of its most rewarding experiences come from the lesser-known corners, quiet lakes, hidden temples, scenic backwaters, and conversations with local people.
I will cover another very interesting destination from this Kerala journey in my next post. Until then, stay tuned.
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