Spending an afternoon in Alappuzha was all the time I could manage on my solo trip to Kerala. (Read my previous post to know the reason.) I wondered what would be the best way to spend those few hours before reaching the Alappuzha Lighthouse at opening time. I soon realised that the perfect choice was a short Shikara ride through the Alappuzha backwaters, one of the best ways to experience this beautiful part of Kerala.
Setting Out on the Alappuzha Backwaters
Alappuzha, also known as Alleppey, is one of Kerala’s most popular tourist destinations. It is famous for its serene backwaters, an intricate network of canals, and picturesque houseboats. The renowned Nehru Trophy Boat Race is held on Punnamada Lake every year. Via Boat Jetty Road, I reached the boating point opposite the Haveli Backwater Resort.
I boarded the Shikara in the scorching afternoon heat. The shade overhead and the breeze across the water were hardly enough to cool me in the hot and humid weather. As the boat glided through the narrow canal, I saw boats of all sizes anchored along its banks. Once we entered Punnamada Lake, both the scenery and the waterway opened up dramatically. Beautiful houseboats lay anchored across the lake while other boats and Shikaras quietly cruised between them.
It was an unusual time for boating. There were visitors like me who had either chosen—or been compelled—to squeeze in a ride through the Alappuzha backwaters during the hottest part of the day. But I am sure none of them was in as much of a hurry as I was to finish the ride before the lighthouse opened. 😀
Life Along the Backwaters
Soon after entering the wider stretch of the lake, I began to witness everyday life on the water. Some houseboats were full of tourists, while others waited quietly for their next guests. Fishermen continued their work despite the afternoon heat, and life flowed on at its own unhurried pace.
Boats loaded with coconuts moved from one part of the lake to another. Islands were scattered across this labyrinth of rivers, lakes, canals, and backwaters. Where there are islands, there are coconut trees, and where there are coconut trees, there are tiny fishing villages. In one such village, my boatman had arranged lunch for me. Before leaving the jetty, he had confirmed my preference and placed the order.
As my Shikara followed its designated route, I noticed the local boat service ferrying daily commuters from one jetty to another. It reminded me of a local train that stops at every station, allowing passengers to get off at their destinations. Here, the boats would quickly anchor, passengers would board and disembark, and within moments continue to the next stop. Some people were heading to work, while others were returning from school or the office.
This was perhaps the busiest side of an otherwise laid-back landscape, where life seemed to move at a gentler rhythm, and people appeared content with life’s simple pleasures.
Meeting Krishna, the Brahminy Kite
Eventually, my Shikara anchored at one of the islands. As soon as I stepped ashore, I was welcomed by a magnificent Brahminy Kite. It sat quietly on a metal perch that looked as though it had been made especially for it.
The bird was completely unbothered by the steady stream of visitors. Yet its calm, majestic presence made me feel instantly welcome. The island had a small restaurant run by the residents, who greeted me warmly. When I asked about the bird, they smiled and told me it was their pet.
His name was Krishna.
I eagerly asked if I could get closer to him. The owner happily lifted Krishna and gently placed him on my forearm. Never before had I been so close to a Brahminy Kite. Krishna looked at me calmly. After asking for permission, I gently stroked his head and neck. He accepted the affection with complete ease, making the moment even more special.
The boatman then enthusiastically suggested different poses and clicked several photographs of Krishna and me. They turned out wonderful.
A Traditional Lunch in a Fishing Village
Leaving Krishna back on his perch, I went in for lunch. After washing my hands thoroughly, I sat down to a traditional meal served on a banana leaf. Being a fishing village, the restaurant specialised in fresh seafood. Guests could choose their preferred fish, which would then be cooked in the local style and served piping hot.
I was perfectly happy with my simple vegetarian meal. After finishing lunch and bidding a final goodbye to Krishna, I boarded the Shikara once again.
The Return Through the Alappuzha Backwaters
The boat continued through more canals and wider stretches of the lake. Time was passing quickly, and I glanced at my watch before asking the boatman to head back, as I still wanted to visit the lighthouse before it closed. He turned the boat around, and through the same peaceful scenery, we returned to the starting jetty.
Although the ride lasted only a couple of hours, it offered a glimpse into the unique rhythm of life on the Alappuzha backwaters—one where work, travel, nature, and everyday life blend seamlessly on the water.
Climbing the Alappuzha Lighthouse
From the jetty, I made my way to the Alappuzha Lighthouse. The 26-metre lighthouse overlooks the railway line running parallel to Alappuzha Beach. Climbing the teak spiral staircase to the viewing deck rewarded me with sweeping panoramic views of the surroundings. Across the Arabian Sea, the sun slowly prepared to set over the horizon.
From the top, I could see the road and railway track running alongside the long golden beach. The FCI warehouse, Raja Kesavadas Swimming Pool, the Alappuzha Driving Ground, and the Municipal Recreation Ground were all visible from above. For a while, I had the viewing deck entirely to myself and quietly soaked in the peaceful atmosphere.
Gradually, more visitors began arriving. I watched them buy their tickets and make their way up the lighthouse. As the deck became crowded, I decided it was time to leave. After enjoying a refreshing cup of coffee from a nearby roadside stall, I wrapped up my memorable afternoon in Alappuzha and continued towards my next destination.
Read about Thattekad Bird Sanctuary.
Read about Thiruvananthapuram.
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