Into the Forests of Thattekad Bird Sanctuary
“If the elephants charge, will you be able to run and escape?” he asked with a smile.
Laughing, I replied, “I cannot outrun elephants. So I will either befriend them or get trampled beneath them.”
Deep inside the forest of the Thattekad Bird Sanctuary, this was the conversation between the naturalist guiding me through the jungle in search of birds and me. We were in the heart of the most popular birding zone of the Thattekad Bird Sanctuary.
This was my second day of birding in the Thattekad Bird Sanctuary. During my solo trip across parts of Kerala, I could only manage a one-day reservation at my chosen birding camp. With just a single day in the midst of nature, I planned two birding sessions — one in the afternoon on the day of arrival and another early the next morning before departure.
My Kerala trip was mainly centred around the Thattekad Bird Sanctuary, but the unavailability of my preferred stay for those dates forced me to change my itinerary entirely. (Read about my previous visit to Kerala.)
Arrival at the Birding Camp
I arrived at Thattekad during the final leg of my Kerala solo trip. The birding camp where I stayed was located close to the Thattekad Bird Sanctuary. The moment I arrived, I felt transported into another world.
After getting out of the car, I saw a row of deluxe tents overlooking a lush green field surrounded by fruiting trees. The sloping meadow descended toward the camp restaurant, beyond which the Idamalayar River flowed gently by. Across the river stood a green hill, guarding this peaceful little hamlet.
The first sight of the birding camp impressed me deeply. The constant chirping around made me even more hopeful about birding in the Thattekad Bird Sanctuary.
I was accompanied by Mr Bahanan Joy, owner of JB Travels, who had driven me through Kerala and finally to Thattekad. He was equally excited, as this was his first visit to the birding camp as well.
Meeting the Naturalist
After the check-in formalities, I met the resident naturalist, Mr Abhilash V S. He spoke passionately about the Thattekad Bird Sanctuary and his transformation from engineer to naturalist.
I enjoyed listening to his story while sharing mine — how I evolved from an amateur birder into an enthusiastic birder travelling across places in search of birds.
I also told him about my target species for the trip, although every bird encounter — common or rare — would be equally appreciated.
About Thattekad Bird Sanctuary
The Thattekad Bird Sanctuary is a small sanctuary in Kerala, with Kothamangalam being the nearest major town. Spread across just 25 square kilometres, it was Kerala’s first bird sanctuary, established in 1983 and officially named the Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary.
The Malayalam word “Thattekad” means “flat forest.” During his survey of the area in 1933, the legendary ornithologist Dr Salim Ali recognised the region’s rich avian biodiversity and envisioned it as a future bird sanctuary. Years later, his vision became reality with the formation of the Thattekad Bird Sanctuary.
There are several walking trails within the sanctuary, including the Salim Ali Trail, the Baza Trail, and the Frogmouth Trail. The sanctuary also has a butterfly park and boating facilities. Based on my target species, the naturalist carefully selected the trails we would explore.
Birds of Thattekad Bird Sanctuary
The Thattekad Bird Sanctuary is home to nearly 270 species of birds, including a large number of resident species and winter migrants. The Indian Pitta, a celebrated winter visitor here, was one of my primary targets, along with the elusive Black Baza.
Apart from these, I also hoped to spot several secondary target species. Some of the birds commonly seen in the Thattekad Bird Sanctuary include various cuckoos, Grey Drongo, Malabar Trogon, Common Snipe, woodpeckers, Crow Pheasant, Indian Roller, and Indian Hill Myna and more
Among the rare species recorded here are the Ceylon Frogmouth, Bourdillon’s Long-eared Nightjar, Peninsular Bay Owl, Crimson-throated Barbet, Malabar Shama, and Grey-headed Fish Eagle.
The Search for the Indian Pitta
The naturalist was sceptical about spotting the Black Baza. According to him and the camp staff, sightings had drastically reduced over the past few years. Whether this decline was due to changing weather patterns or some other factor, nobody seemed certain.
However, he was confident about the Indian Pittas. He mentioned that a nearby private property often hosted Pittas near the riverbank, and they occasionally ventured into the lawns of the birding camp in search of food.
Without wasting time, he asked me to follow him.
We walked toward the riverbank, crossed a small boundary wall, and carefully moved through thick bushes toward a bamboo grove beside the river. I followed him quietly.
Almost immediately, I noticed movement beneath the bamboo cover. He signalled me to sit silently while he whistled softly from the other side.
We waited patiently.
But alas, there was no sign of the Indian Pitta.
After a long wait, we returned.
Walking the Ceylon Frogmouth Trail
At around 3 PM, we headed into the Thattekad Bird Sanctuary to explore the Ceylon Frogmouth Trail, as the frogmouth was also one of my major target birds. We skipped the Baza Trail entirely because the chances of spotting a Black Baza were almost non-existent.
While completing the entry formalities, we were informed that elephants had recently been heard moving nearby, so a forest guard would accompany us.
The forest guard joined us at the gate as we entered the Ceylon Frogmouth Trail of the Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary.
Descending along a narrow forest path, we soon spotted a pair of Ceylon Frogmouths resting quietly among dried leaves and branches. Their camouflage was extraordinary.
I was thrilled.
Spotting such a rare species at close range without much effort felt surreal.
After photographing the birds, we returned to the main trail. The forest guard pointed out an Asian Paradise Flycatcher when, suddenly, a Chestnut-winged Cuckoo appeared nearby. I immediately shifted my focus to the cuckoo.
By the time I finished photographing it, the flycatcher had disappeared.
Two rare sightings back-to-back had raised my expectations tremendously.
A Quiet Evening in the Sanctuary
Then came the dry spell.
We waited for a kingfisher, but nothing appeared. We searched for the Indian Pitta again, but there was still no sign of it. Meanwhile, I photographed a skink resting near the trail.
Even during winter, the humidity was exhausting. Now with the monsoon approaching, I realised I had spent spring and summer postponing this Thattekad Bird Sanctuary story. Finally, I am back to narrate this winter birding experience from the beginning of the year on this special day – World Environment Day.
As daylight slowly faded with no further sightings, we returned to the parking area where Mr Bahanan eagerly awaited our stories from the forest.
The night at the camp was beautiful. A bright full moon illuminated the river, the tents, and the surrounding greenery. After dinner, I retired to my tent for the night.
Elephant Signs in the Forest
Early the next morning, the naturalist guided me to a small hillock on the opposite side of the sanctuary. Mr Bahanan drove us to the base, from where we climbed to the rocky summit.
The elevated viewpoint gave us an excellent vantage point over the surrounding forest.
Gradually, other birders arrived with their guides and naturalists. After spotting a few common species, we descended into a denser section of the forest on the opposite side.
Fresh elephant dung on the trail immediately caught our attention. Mr Abhilash warned me that elephants were likely nearby.
We cautiously continued walking while spotting pigeons and other forest birds before reaching an ancient local temple. The temple was surrounded by electric fencing — clear evidence of frequent elephant encounters.
A nearby stream showed even fresher signs of elephant activity, including pugmarks and dung. The naturalist decided not to risk crossing further.
That was when he jokingly asked whether I could outrun an elephant.
The Surprise Ending: Malabar Trogons
We eventually exited the area through another trail and returned to the car.
After driving a short distance, we suddenly noticed a commotion among a group of birders.
A Malabar Trogon had appeared in the backyard of a nearby house.
We rushed out immediately.
To our delight, there were actually two trogons — a male and a female.
While I busily photographed the pair, the other birders from the hillock also gathered around. Mr Bahanan, an enthusiastic mobile photographer himself, was equally excited to capture the moment on his phone.
The trogons provided a perfect ending to my birding experience at the Thattekad Bird Sanctuary.
Final Thoughts on Thattekad Bird Sanctuary
Although I could not spot all my target birds, I spent unforgettable moments amidst the forests, waking up to the constant melodies of birdsong.
While returning home from Kerala, I met a gentleman at the security kiosk of Kochi Airport. Curious about my camera gear, he asked about my travels.
When I explained my birding trip to the Thattekad Bird Sanctuary, he quietly remarked:
“Thattekad has run dry of birds these days.”
Being a native of Thattekad, he said many of his friends regularly updated him about the current situation there.
I am nobody to judge the accuracy of that statement.
But the thought has stayed with me ever since.
Here are the contact details of Mr Bahanan Joy, who is based in Kochi and conducts tours across Kerala. This is not a promotional activity, but simply a gesture of sharing the excellent service I experienced while travelling across Kerala as a solo female traveller.
Bahanan Joy: +91 98466 35188
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