‘Footlooseinme’ reached Dawki after spending some me time in Mawlynnong. Known for its pristine River Umngot, Dawki has become a household name. However, Dawki is the name of the place through which this transparent river flows. The Umngot River is often referred to as the Dawki River. Located at the bottom of the Jaintia Hills and bordering Bangladesh, this lush and peaceful surrounding has recently become a hotspot of North East tourism. I am here at Dawki to take you through the transparent waters of the River Umngot.
Reaching Dawki from Mawlynnong took me along a road bordering Bangladesh. Barbed wire lined a long stretch of the road, and just across it lay the fields of Bangladesh. I have been to the India-Bangladesh border check post before, but I have never travelled on a road that runs so close to the barbed wire.
(Read my previous post on Akhaura Check Post.)
(Read my posts on Dhaka, Bangladesh.)
On reaching Dawki, I could see the famous river flowing down the gorge. I climbed down the uneven stairs to reach the bank of the river. There was a counter to purchase tickets for boating on the Umngot River. There were two options available—one was boating for 45 minutes, and the other for an hour. The 45-minute trip would not include a refreshment break on a small island upstream of the river.
I chose the one-hour boating on the Umngot River in Dawki. The young boatman was a local Khasi lad who conversed with me in English. He was curious and friendly. He enquired about my solo trip, where I was from, the prevailing weather at my place, and much more. He pointed to the Khasi and the Jaintia Hills on either side of the river and told me their names. He first took the boat downstream.
The narrow river widened slightly downstream as it entered Bangladesh. There was a border check post with a small BSF camp on our side, featuring the Indian flag, and the Bangladesh flag just a couple of meters ahead, marking the invisible border. While gliding through the clean, transparent water of the River Umngot, I may have inadvertently entered Bangladesh waters (though I am not sure). Citizens on the Bangladesh side of the riverbank were picnicking. Some were also seen playing in the clean waters.
To my surprise, one from this group in the water waved at me and called out, saying, “Madam, asen amago dash deikhaa jaan” (meaning – Madam, please come and see our country). Then they joyfully laughed. I, being a Bengali, could very well understand what they said, even if it was in their accent. My boatman was clueless. We ignored it and moved ahead.
Then the boatman turned the boat upstream. The calm water had a very gentle downstream flow. The depth of the river was not much. Gradually, the bottom of the river became visible. The arrangement of pebbles under the blue-green water made the scene and the boat ride so pleasing. I leaned down from the boat to touch the cold water of the River Umngot and pay my respects to the river. River—the lifeline for every living soul.
(Read my previous post on Rivers of India.)
Dawki, a border village in the north-eastern part of India, has gained fame because of the clean and transparent River Umngot. While I was travelling to Dawki from Mawlynnong, little did I know that this river would mesmerise me as well. I was gliding through the light and gentle waters, as the cool breeze blew across my face, and the boatman rapped along to the music playing from his phone. I wanted to make a video of him singing while rowing me through the Dawki River.
He immediately became conscious and started missing his beats. He then laughed and said, “I cannot sing in front of the camera.” I realised this and stopped recording, asking him to continue singing. Some things are not meant to be captured on camera—some moments are to be left alone and preserved in memory.
He anchored the boat on a small pebbled island in the river. There were makeshift food stalls for tourists. I sat in one of them and enjoyed a cup of noodles, watching the clean river and the pebbles below.
After finishing my noodles, I went to the river and collected a few pebbles of my choice as souvenirs. Then it was time to return to the starting point. While tourists were enjoying their time in the water, many locals were seen fishing with their traditional fishing rods and baskets. My boat ride on the River Umngot in Dawki was over. My next stop was Shnongpdeng, where I could get another glimpse of the river.
Shnongpdeng is a small village compared to Dawki. It is situated further upstream and to the north. At a distance of approximately 8 km from Dawki, Shnongpdeng is mainly known to tourists for adventure activities. But I was here to see the old suspension bridge over the River Umngot. I was a little late to arrive, and by that time, I had missed the overhead sun on the river below. This, in turn, ruined my plan to capture the boats on the river with their shadows on the water.
A small and typical village of North-East India, Shnongpdeng offers a lot of camping sites for adventure enthusiasts. But I could not stay any longer as I had another spot to visit before I called it a day. I bid my final adieu to River Dawki (oops), River Umngot, and Shnongpdeng to move towards Krang Suri Waterfalls in Amlarem.
After a drive of around 30 to 45 minutes, I reached the Krang Suri Waterfalls viewpoint. I walked down the paved slope to reach the viewpoint. On the other side of the forested gorge was the waterfall. Located within the lush green forested area of West Jaintia Hills, this waterfall cascades into a transparent turquoise pool. Even from a great distance, the sights and sounds of the waterfall were appealing enough.
What could be a better way to end the day trip?
I returned to the hotel to rest and recharge for my next day’s adventure.
Read my previous post on Living Root Bridge and Mawlynnong.
Read my introductory post on the Meghalaya Series.
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