Birdwatching in Bhutan – Part II

Birding in Bhutan was already a hit. The first part of our journey from Paro to Pelela Pass was immensely successful. This being the precursor we were highly hopeful for all that awaited us. Our journey towards Trongsa began on a happy note. The dense fog and mist gradually lifted as we moved forward. What accompanied us throughout our drive was the soul-soothing view of the expanse. We were supposed to drive straight to Trongsa without taking frequent breaks as we had a few days in hand. We did not stop for the birds but were happily forced to stop to capture the vistas. Travel with ‘Footlooseinme’ to experience the remaining part of Birding in Bhutan.

We were gradually losing altitude as we drove past Palela Pass. Views of green farms surrounding pretty houses in between looked just like paintings. The views were so pleasing that it looked like a drive through the wonderland. As I mentioned earlier we didn’t stop now and then in search of the birds like the way we did before rather we drove at a steady speed enjoying the landscapes – and capturing them in our hearts as well as in our cameras.

River Mangdechhu accompanied us all through our journey. We crossed the river many times driving over many bridges. One among those somehow looked very special to my eyes. The topography, the fast-flowing water, the colourful prayer flags fluttering in the breeze, and the small temple beside the bridge were all in perfect harmony. Some views are made to be etched onto the soul and this was one for me.   

We could see the majestic Trongsa Dzong from a distance. Trongsa is an important town and the dzong holds a special place in the history of Bhutan. It used to be the seat of the administration of the Wangchik dynasty before they became the king of Bhutan. Trongsa Dzong is the largest of all the dzongs in Bhutan. Trongsa being centrally located was the strategic point to administer the whole of Bhutan. 

We stopped for lunch at a resort where we were supposed to stay the next night on our way back from Tingtibi. Beautiful scenes were our constant companion. Tiny to large brooks, swift waterfalls, pretty bridges on the mountain streams, and dark green cover on the hills – everything looked magical. Mother Nature never cease to awe me with its wonders. 

Travel is all about gaining knowledge knowing people and sometimes making friends. This time while on our Birding in Bhutan, we made a new friend, our expert Birding guide Jigme. (Read my previous post to know more about Jigme.) Jigme accompanied Richard Grimmett for his birding tour of Bhutan for his book. He is the founding Chairman of the Oriental Bird Club and author of the ‘Birds of the Indian Subcontinent’(considered the Bible of birding guide for the Indian subcontinent).

We stopped at a beautiful spot to capture the Minivets when we surprisingly spotted a Peregrine Falcon sitting high up on a high-tension electric pole. When lifers come in the form of such large birds, the joy is simply unmeasurable. We were close to Zhemgang when we stopped. Jigme was looking for some birds through his binoculars when he spotted the Rufous-necked Hornbill. It was the moment of the day! Or (shall I say?) the moment of our Birding in Bhutan.

Hornbills are one of my favourite birds. (Read my previous post on Hornbills.) I could never imagine, that sighting this considerably rare species of Hornbill would be like a breeze. To our surprise, another bird joined the first. (Though we couldn’t capture them in a frame.) They were moving around within the thick foliage. We kept following them to the point where one flew off to the other side of the hill. As one flew off, the other six followed one after the other. And this was a bonus sighting. Who could have imagined that Birding in Bhutan would be so rewarding? 

Our expectations rose to a different level. Now we started believing in supernatural powers – like we will think of a resident bird and see it in a moment 😀.  In this way, we reached Zhemgang, a beautiful green province. Zhemgang is known as the ecological corridor, the district comprises two environmentally protected areas –  the Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park and the  Royal Manas National Park. 

By the time we reached the sleepy little town of Tingtibi, it was getting dark. We drove past the town and entered the forest area leaving behind the paved road. The dusk made the path through the woods look even darker. We were driving towards Berti Ecolodge in the Zhemgang district near Tingtibi. The sole, basic hotel where Jigme generally keeps his guests was closed. 

We were sceptical about the rooms in this eco-lodge. Our scepticism rose as we entered into the denser part of the jungle. The fading light within the thick forest radiated a gloomy vibe. But the very first sight of the property pleased us with its aesthetics. We were instantly in love with the place. The property is located just beside the fast-flowing Mangdechhu River within the thick canopy of the forest. 

What an amazing sight it was! A few meters ahead was a suspension footbridge that would cut short the travel through the forest and connect you straight to the highway. The only catch was you have your vehicle that you won’t be able to carry with you 😀. The comfy rooms with attached bathrooms and all the basic amenities made our stay within this forest memorable. I wish we could stay there for one more night so that I could have ample balcony time watching the river while listening to its sweet music. 

The fenced Ecolodge premises had a few wooden cottages with balconies facing the river and a couple of tents with camping facilities available. This is a government initiative, where they encourage local youths to build such eco-friendly stays for the visitors and in turn earn their livelihood.  

In search of the Great Hornbill, we checked out of our stay early in the morning. I wished I could stay there for one more day. But we had one more primary member on our list while Birding in Bhutan to be checked. The whole of the morning and some part of the afternoon went in search of the Great Hornbill. Jigme tried his best to look for the bird at every possible spot he could. We even drove through the same path again and again. But luck eluded us in the form of Great Hornbill. 

After the sighting of the Rufous Necked Hornbill, we never could imagine that the comparatively common (in terms of Jigme) Great Hornbill would evade us in this way. After such great sightings, we had no regrets about not seeing the Great Hornbill. Yet there is a tiny itch at the bottom of our hearts for this magnificent bird. (It seemed our friend Jigme was more disheartened than us by the no-show of the Great Hornbill.)

This again opens up another opportunity to revisit the place for Birding in Bhutan. Meanwhile, in the course of our search for the Great Hornbill, we had some amazing sightings. In this way, we reached Trongsa by evening and checked in at the Trendel Resort, where we had our lunch the previous afternoon. This was a beautiful resort with all the amenities for a comfortable stay.

The next day starting early we drove from Trongsa and via Nobding we returned to Paro seeing many birds on the way. Thus our guided tour for Birding in Bhutan ended with a hope to return with the same team again. We bid farewell to our friend Jigme at Thimphu. He is an excellent birding guide and a nature lover. We were very fortunate to have him with us making our Birding in Bhutan a remarkable and memorable tour. 

On our penultimate day in Bhutan, we trekked the Tiger’s Nest. (Read my previous post on Trek to Tiger’s Nest.) Our friend Lakey accompanied us. He happily played the ‘Call of the Birds’ from his mobile app that he recently installed. He had a newfound love for birding and seemed seriously involved in it 🙂.  In this way, we made a perfect team for Birding in Bhutan with Jigme and Lakey. With the pictures of my new winged friends to follow, I end my post here with a wish to be back soon for Birding in Bhutan. 

Read my previous post on Paro.

Read my post on Ugyen Guru Lhakhang.

Read my previous post on Thimphu.

Read my previous post on Punakha.

Read my previous post on Phobjika.

Read my previous post on Haa Valley.

Read my previous post on Cukha.

Read my previous post on Bhutan.

Read my previous post on the flora and fauna of Bhutan.

Read my previous post on Birdwatching in Bhutan.