A couple of days in Udupi just passed away like a breeze. Now we were set to return from Udupi. The initial part of our journey followed the coastal roads and we knew it would be interesting. To make it even more exciting we added a stop to our Google Maps – the Murudeshwar Temple. Footlooseinme will now take you back to Pune but with a slight reroute – Udupi to Murudeshwar to Pune.
As we followed the coastal route from Udupi to Murudeshwar we crossed many creeks, Backwater and rivers. The Rivers with some interesting names like the Suvarna River, the Sita River, the Pancha Gangavali River, the Souparnika River, the Yadamavu River, the Byndoor River, the Venkatpur River and many more. I love to see the rivers on my way. India is a country which is full of rivers and they all are the lifeline of the surrounding areas. (Read my previous post on Rivers of India.)
In this way, we reached the Maravanthe beach. We did take a break here to watch the calm beach and enjoy fresh coconut water. The coconut trees along the beach were being harvested and we took the opportunity to quench our thirst by purchasing some fresh green coconut. It was a refreshing cool break from the harsh sun before getting back on the road.
Murudeshwar is a town in the Uttara Kannada district of coastal Karnataka famous for the Murudeshwar temple. Murudeshwar temple has the World’s second-tallest statue of Lord Shiva. Murudeshwar temple is built on a small hill called Kanduka Giri, overlooking the sea. The Kanduka Hill projects into the sea and thus the location is surrounded by the sea on three sides.
While on our way from Udupi to Murudeshwar we took the left from the Temple gateway and drove straight towards the temple. After purchasing the parking tickets we drove past the Gopura and ascended to the parking on the higher level. We parked our car there and climbed up a few stairs to reach the large statue of Lord Shiva. The Shiva statue faces the 20-storied Gopura with its back towards the sea. A large Nandi bull faces the Shiva statue.
Beside the approach staircase, there is a statue of Ravana and Ganesha holding the Atma-lingam. There is an interesting legend associated with this temple. According to Hindu scriptures Purana, the Gods obtained immortality by worshipping Lord Shiva in the form of Atma-Linga. To attain immortality, devout Asura king Ravana worshipped Lord Shiva and performed strong penance.
Lord Shiva was pleased by his devotion and awarded him with a boon. Ravana asked for the Atma-linga as the boon. Lord Shiva blessed him with the Atma-linga with one condition it should not be placed on the ground before reaching Lanka. Knowing that Ravana would inflict devastating damage on Earth, Vishnu asked Ganesha to interfere and stop Ravana from taking the Atma-Linga back to Lanka.
The lords devised a plan and while Ravana was near Gokarna, Vishnu dimmed the rays of the Sun giving an assumption of the dusk. Ravana being a pious man had to perform his evening religious rites. This is when Ganesha approached him dressed as a Brahmin. Ravana asked Ganesha to hold the Atma-Linga as he finished his rituals. Ganesha agreed on one condition that he would call Ravana thrice before placing the Atma-Linga on the ground. Vishnu lifts the covering from the Sun and the day gets illuminated.
Ravana realised that he was tricked by the Gods and returned to find the Atma-linga on the ground. Enraged by the plan of the Gods he tries to uproot the Atma-linga and in this process eventually breaks the outer covering. Pieces were scattered and fell at different places where temples were built later. The cloth covering of the Atma-linga fell in Mrideshwar in Kanduka-Giri. Mrideswar came to be known as Murudeshwara.
The huge Murudeshwar temple complex is well-made with parking facilities, lifts to reach the top of the Gopura, food stalls, a cafeteria, a park and a pool. The sanctum sanctorum is within the 209-foot-tall, 20-storied Raja Gopura. While the rest of the temple complex is modernised the sanctum sanctorum remains the same and the main deity of Sri Mridesa Linga, also called Murdeshwar lies within. Devotees are not allowed to enter the main temple.
A temple with Rameshwar Linga is at the bottom of the hill where the devotees are allowed to worship. Besides the idol of Sri Akshayaguna, there is a Shaneshwar temple. There are other statues all around the Temple complex. A statue of Sun Chariot can be seen by the side of the pool. There are statues of Arjuna receiving Geetopadesham from Lord Krishna and statues of Ravana being deceived by Ganesha in disguise.
There was a huge crowd waiting for their chance to climb the Gopura. So we decided to leave our chance and rather climb the hill and see the second-longest statue of Shiva up and close. While doing a Parikrama or Pradakshina or circumambulation of the Shiva we got the opportunity to get a stunning view of the coastline. While the Murudeshwar beach behind the Gopura looked crowded the Murudeshwar fishermen’s beach looked calm and serene.
We came from Udupi to Murudeshwar with the hope of making our return journey exciting but this journey soothed our soul and filled our hearts with great joy and satisfaction. Probably the touch of nature and the serenity impart more of a religious feeling than the rituals themselves. After our drive from Udupi to Murudeshwar, we safely returned to our home.
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