Chasing Stripes in Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve

Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve, often known by the acronym TATR, is the oldest and largest national park in Maharashtra. It covers a total area of 625.4 km², consisting of Tadoba National Park (116.55 km²) and the Andhari Wildlife Sanctuary (508.85 km²). The Tadoba Lake to the southwest, Kolsa Lake, and the Andhari River within the reserve provide ample water sources for the wildlife of the region. These water bodies support a rich ecosystem and attract a wide variety of animals and birds, making the reserve a gateway to a biodiversity-rich wilderness.

The name Tadoba is derived from the name “Taru.” Taru was a brave man from the Gond tribe. The legend of his bravery earned him the status of a demigod, and he is still worshipped by the natives of the region. (To know his story, read here: https://mytadoba.mahaforest.gov.in/aboutus)

Visiting Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve (TATR) had been on my list for a long, long time. This being a high-profile forest (as I like to call it) is never easily accessible. On previous occasions, whenever I tried to book a safari online, I was disheartened to see that all slots in both the core and buffer zones, across every possible gate, were already full. Even when trying to book 2, 3, or 4 months in advance, the scenario remained the same.

This time, it was a full family trip, and we did not want to miss the opportunity to secure safari slots. So we tried to complete the online booking through the Mahaforest website well in advance. Unfortunately, we failed again because it was six months ahead of our travel date, and the slots had not yet opened.

So the question was:

How to book a Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve safari?

This time, we finally succeeded in booking a safari at Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve. We checked the website regularly:
https://mytadoba.mahaforest.gov.in/

As soon as the slots opened for our travel dates, we rushed to make our bookings. We wanted to reserve three safaris for three consecutive days. Sadly, we only managed bookings for the first day and the third day. The second day was already full, and no slots were available to accommodate a group of eight. At that time, we were also unaware of the forest closure days, which we came to know only after reaching the forest.

For safari bookings, one can visit the official Mahaforest website:
https://mytadoba.mahaforest.gov.in/

When does the Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve (TATR) remain closed?

The core area of Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve remains closed every Tuesday, while the buffer area remains closed every Wednesday. While booking safari slots, the website only displays the message “Gate Closed”, without specifying the reason.

With an attempt to book three safaris for three consecutive days, we eventually managed to secure two safari bookings.

• First safari: Evening safari at Moharli Gate (Core) for 8 people in two Gypsy vans.
• Second safari: Morning safari at Kutwanda Gate (Core) for 6 people in one Gypsy.

We could not get eight slots on the third day. This perfectly describes the booking scenario at Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve (TATR). For this reason, I like to call it a high-profile forest.

Where to stay in (TATR)?

There are numerous resorts, eco-stays, homestays, and hotels around the buffer zone of Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve. However, considering the proximity to Irai Lake, the forest, and Moharli Gate, we decided to stay at MTDC Tadoba. After reading several sighting reviews and considering its location close to the forest, we felt this would be an ideal place to stay during our visit to Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve (TATR). With all the bookings completed, we finally breathed a sigh of relief. Since the travel date was still far away, we almost forgot about our Tadoba trip for a while.

Finally, the day of our journey arrived, and we started on a road trip from Pune to Tadoba via Wardha. Once again, we drove on the Hindu Hrudaysamrat Balasaheb Thackeray Maharashtra Samruddhi Mahamarg (read about my previous trip to Satpura through this expressway).

After resting for the first night in Wardha, we headed toward the MTDC resort in Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve the next day. Our gypsies had been booked in advance. After completing some formalities at the MTDC resort and paying an additional fee, we arranged for pickup from the resort in the same gypsies.

At the Moharli entrance gate, every vehicle was assigned an individual forest guide. The guide of each gypsy collected mobile phones from all passengers and placed them in a locked casket along with their own phone. The box was then kept in the vehicle, and the key was handed over to the forest guards at the gate.

Mobile phones are not allowed inside Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve. This was new information for me, and I was initially confused about whether it was the right step. I felt bad for those who did not carry cameras and relied on their mobile phones to capture memories. On the other hand, I also realised that this rule helps prevent overcrowding at wildlife sighting spots, where information can otherwise spread through phones within minutes.

Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve is also a no-plastic zone, and carrying plastic items beyond the forest gate is prohibited. Forest guards check bags and provide complimentary glass water bottles filled with cool, filtered water, which visitors can later take home as souvenirs. After completing all formalities, the gate opened, and the gypsies entered the forest.

We were welcomed by a calm Crested Serpent Eagle perched on an open branch of a tree. Next, we spotted a Lesser Adjutant Stork in flight.

And then, finally — the Tiger.

The tiger was sitting on the dirt track, completely unperturbed by the safari vehicles. One after another, vehicles lined up behind him. He lazily groomed himself for a while. After some time, he changed his position and moved into the grass, providing an excellent backdrop for us to capture the striped beauty.

Patiently, he posed for everyone, and those with cameras filled their memory cards with the magic of the moment. After the tiger’s grand appearance, we were left with little time as the evening light began to fade.

Soon, we spotted a pair of Indian Grey Mongooses crossing the dirt track with their cute, curious gait. And finally, we encountered the Dhole — the Indian Wild Dog. They were in a small group, but by the time our gypsy reached the spot, only one remained visible.

Our safari ended with this sighting, and we began our return journey through the same gate. To our surprise, the Crested Serpent Eagle was still sitting on the same branch, almost as if it had stayed back to bid us farewell.

At the gate, the forest guards returned the keys to the respective guides. The guides then unlocked the casket and returned our mobile phones. With a successful safari on the first day, we were very hopeful for the next.

However, we had no safari planned for the second day, as we had failed to secure bookings both online and offline. So we decided to go for morning boating at Irai Lake and an afternoon outing to the nearby Butterfly Park and Chandrapur Fort. I will share my second-day experience in a separate post and keep this one dedicated to Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve (TATR).

On the third day, we had to start very early because we needed to travel about 45 minutes to reach the Khutwanda Gate from our stay near Moharli Gate.

Following the same procedure — collecting mobile phones, checking for plastic items, and distributing glass bottles — the gate finally opened. Our gypsy, along with several others, entered the forest once again.

The morning seemed a little dull at first, with very little light. After moving through different parts of the forest, we finally reached a spot where a Leopard was resting on a high branch of a tree.

Our gypsy stopped directly beneath it. At one point, while the leopard was shifting positions, it seemed as if it might jump straight onto us. 😀 We waited there for quite a while and captured its various moods in the golden light of the morning sun.

Leaving the leopard behind, we moved ahead to an area where numerous gypsies had gathered. According to the guides, it was the same tiger that had been spotted at Moharli Gate the day before yesterday.

So once again, we hoped to meet the handsome fellow. However, the large crowd of gypsies and the camouflage of the striped tiger hidden behind bushes made it nearly impossible for me to spot him. Eventually, we exited through Khutwanda Gate.

Like the previous day, the same gypsy was supposed to drop us back at the MTDC resort. As we approached the resort gate, we noticed a commotion and several stranded private vehicles. Someone pointed toward the marshy area beside the road.

There he was — a full-grown adult male tiger.

The tiger was enjoying a cool dip in the marsh, clearly in no hurry to move. We waited for a long time, hoping he would emerge from behind the grasses. But alas! He slowly walked farther away, keeping cover behind the tall grass. My camera struggled to focus through the grass, and all I could capture was a game of hide-and-seek with the tiger.

Still, the MTDC reviews proved true, and we were rewarded for our stay with an unexpected, thrilling sighting of a magnificent tiger — without any safari booking. Feeling blessed and happy, we returned to our room and finally began our journey back from Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve, carrying wonderful memories with us to Pune.

The forests of Tadoba had given us more than we hoped for—majestic predators, serene landscapes, and unforgettable moments in the wild. Some journeys stay with you long after they end, and this was surely one of them.