“Footlooseinme” set forth on the Double Decker Living Root Bridge trek on the third day of the Meghalaya tour. Living root bridges have been an integral part of Khasi life, particularly in areas surrounding the forested hills, crisscrossed by fast-flowing rivers and streams. (Read my previous post on the single root bridge to know more about the root bridges of Meghalaya.) Nongriat Root Bridge in Tyrna village has become famous for its multi-layered structure, and this is my destination for the day.
The Double Decker Living Root Bridge trek is now an immensely popular tourist activity. I wasn’t aware of the intensity of the trek and had initially planned to combine it with visits to other places in Cherrapunji. (Read my previous post to explore the places to visit in Cherrapunji.)
While I chalked out my tour plan and shared it with my car driver, he advised me to keep a separate day for the Double Decker Root Bridge trek.
I was still not convinced. I searched on the internet and spoke to a few local friends I met on the flight to Shillong. (Read my first post in the Meghalaya series to know how I made friends with the locals.) After learning about the trek’s difficulty, I became a little sceptical. With my fitness level not in great condition, I wasn’t sure whether I should attempt it. But finally, gathering some courage, I decided to go for it.
Starting earlier than the previous day and passing through the same route, I reached the main entrance of the Nongriat Root Bridge in Tyrna village. Nothing noteworthy happened along the way. My driver advised me to take a guide who could accompany me and help if needed, as I was alone. I agreed. He arranged for a young kid as my guide. The Khasi boy welcomed me with a warm smile.
I began the Double Decker Root Bridge trek with my young guide. His name was Ruddyson, and he was a local from a nearby village. He works as a guide to support his family and is the youngest of seven siblings. He had to discontinue his studies to help support the large family. The innocence of the kid impressed me. He befriended me in no time. I entered through the gateway and began the descent.
The Double Decker Root Bridge trek involves a descent of 3,000 steps—one way—to reach the site. I also hired a walking stick, as suggested by my driver and guide. The initial part of the trail featured a gentle descent with long, wide steps. I started to think the trek might be easy—until I reached the point where the steps narrowed sharply and the slope became very steep. The steps were so narrow that an adult couldn’t place a full foot on them. Stepping cautiously, with foot placed at an angle, I followed my guide.
He asked me about my solo trip, where I came from, and how things were back home. He also spoke about the Double Decker Root Bridge, the local villages, and the flora and fauna. Amidst this conversation, he casually mentioned we had already climbed down 500 steps. I was in awe. I thought to myself — Ruddy knows his job well. He pointed down at a village at the bottom of the hill, the first one we had to cross. Beyond that, on another hill, at a certain elevation, was the second village—our destination.
A long way to go. Cautiously stepping on the short, steep stairs was tiring my legs. The kid noticed and offered to carry my only luggage—a small backpack filled with snacks, beverages, and water. He also encouraged me to take frequent breaks to conserve energy. During these short breaks, we snacked and rehydrated, gradually lightening the load of my bag.
We reached the first village, where the longest single root bridge is located. A signpost showed the direction. Ruddy told me we’d cover this spot on our return. Then, moving through a betel nut grove, we reached a brook. Despite the dry season, there was still a little water left, and we crossed it using a rustic bamboo bridge.
Then we climbed up through the woods and reached a point called the swimming pool. A small waterfall created a turquoise pool below. An old, obsolete bridge stood unused here, while a new, sturdy metal bridge now serves as the way to cross the stream.
Next, there was a short single root bridge built over a dry stream bed. During the monsoons, water rushes through these channels at high speed, making the root bridge crucial. We reached the second village, which had several homestays for tourists. Ruddy said, “We’re almost there.” A few steps ahead was the ticket counter. I was utterly exhausted by then.
At the counter, I was asked whether I wanted a ticket for the Rainbow Waterfalls as well. I decided not to risk it this time. I only bought the Double Decker Root Bridge ticket. Rainbow Waterfall was another 90-minute difficult ascent from there. My guide had already warned me about it. I wasn’t fit enough to take on the extra challenge, especially as a solo traveller. I decided to keep it for next time.
And there it was—this natural yet man-made wonder. I had completed the first phase of my trek. Overjoyed, I crossed the bridge twice—once through the upper level and once through the lower. Because I started early, I avoided the crowd that usually gathers at such popular destinations. Most people trek down the previous day and stay overnight at local guest houses, climb the Rainbow Falls the next day and return.
The crystal-clear pool below was full of fish. Visitors were feeding them grass from the surroundings. Everyone was enjoying this extraordinary structure, which had taken generations to build. I sat on a rock and took it all in, soaking up the moment while replenishing my energy for the climb back. The Double Decker Root Bridge and Rainbow Falls remain closed on Sundays.
On a bright sunny day, the Rainbow Falls form a rainbow around the water body, hence the name. After a rejuvenating break, I was tempted to attempt the Rainbow Falls trek. But it required a separate ticket and a mandatory local guide (which I had). I reanalysed my situation and decided to skip it. Ruddy respected my decision. I was impressed by the kid’s maturity. He didn’t insist I go ahead, though accompanying me would’ve earned him more. The guide charge for the Rainbow Fall is calculated separately. I told him I’d work on my fitness and return another time. He smiled and nodded.
We began the return journey—the toughest part, as I knew what lay ahead. We retraced our steps and reached the swimming pool spot again. The same attractive waterfall plunging into a clear pool refreshed my soul. Re-energised, I moved on, crossing the bamboo bridge once more.
Panting through the ups and downs, we reached the spot where the road bifurcates to the longest single root bridge. Climbing up to reach the bridge, I was completely exhausted. Yet I knew there was a long way to go. Nearby stood another root bridge, either incomplete or no longer in use. Whatever the reason, it stood unused. Bidding a final goodbye to the bridge, I found myself at the final flight of stairs.
The final series of stairs to reach the exit point. My legs were trembling, and my body wanted to give up. I could feel my heartbeat pounding. Somehow, I dragged myself along. Ruddy kept motivating me, saying, “We’re almost there.” Finishing all the beverages I had brought, I now relied on a few roadside stores to quench my thirst. After an immensely tiring climb, I finally reached the exit point. I thanked my young guide, Ruddy and took his contact details to share with others. (You can contact Ruddyson Sohklet at +91 9366679980.)
I got back to my car after this tiring yet remarkable experience of the Double Decker Root Bridge trek. On the way to Shillong, I asked the driver to stop at Cherrapunji Cafe, which I had noticed the previous day. As planned, we stopped. Entering the building, I immediately sensed its colonial-era charm. The architecture and decor transported me to British India.
I found the history of the café written on a page in the menu :
“This 125-year-old Inspection Bungalow is one of the last old British structures found in the country. Recently, it was converted into a restaurant that stands as the dominating structure and main attraction of the place. The structure dates back to the time of the British Raj in India. It was used as an inspection bungalow by British officers, who would pick up a horse from here and travel to far-flung areas of the region. However, this inspection bungalow is popularly known as a Dak Bangla by the locals.”
The once-upon-a-time Dak Bangla (now Cherrapunji Cafe) also had an interesting UFO sighting story. I found a laminated newspaper clipping from The Indian Express, dated 19th October 1967, with the headline: “Flying saucer seen near Shillong”.
“A mysterious saucer-shaped flying object is said to have landed in a running stream, close to the dak bungalow of the Dympep village, about 16 miles from Shillong, on the road to Cherrapunjee on the evening of Friday last, according to reports reaching here yesterday.
These reports stated that the “flying saucer” was first noticed by the villagers of Laitkroh, about two miles away from Dympep village, where the object is reported to have spun like a top about 500 feet above the earth, emitting bright red and green colours. Its diameter was roughly 20 to 30 feet. The object remained for three or four minutes in one position in the sky and then hovered onto another spot close by, where it again spun above the earth for a few minutes. It then flew over the dak bungalow area and landed in a stream.
Reports quoting eye-witnesses stated that the object sucked and churned the water with loud and deafening explosions. From the stream, the object spiralled up and flew towards Mawkdok village, about three miles away, and then towards the dense woods before finally vanishing from sight.
First reports indicate that the mysterious object, in its passage through the forest, breeze-swept everything in its path, and some trees bore marks resembling saw cuts.
It is also reported that the air was very hot in the close vicinity of the object even after it had left. The strange phenomenon lasted about half an hour.
These reports have aroused keen public Interest in Shillong, the hill capital of Assam and at Cherrapunjee, especially in the light of a similar news report from Canada two days ago. (A Renter report from Calgary (Alber Calgary (Alberta) had stated that multicoloured objects like flying saucers terrorised the Calgary district and that the Canadian air force had stepped up a probe into flying saucers).”
After the tiring trek, this cafe offered the perfect comfort—good food, rest, and fascinating stories to share. This beautiful cafe itself became a destination for me. The cafe authorities have also started offering lodging beside the main building, with a handful of cottages and tents for accommodation. With a full tummy and a content heart, I was back in Shillong.
What an extraordinary ending to my Double Decker Root Bridge trek!
Read my previous post on places to visit in Cherrapunji.
Read my previous post on Dawki.
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